Author Archives: Dammann's Garden Center

Shade-Tolerant Vegetables

You don’t need a sun-drenched space to grow a nutritious, delicious vegetable garden. Whether your urban garden is balanced on a deep balcony, tucked into a narrow side yard, or hidden by a privacy fence, there are many shade-tolerant vegetables you can easily grow for a bountiful harvest.

How Much Shade Do You Have?

Before planting, study your shady space to determine how much shade and sunlight you may really have. Even in a shaded garden, the sun may peek through at different times of day, or shadows shift through the seasons to bring more sunlight into the area. Some vegetables do well in partial shade, but  all will benefit from some intermittent or filtered sunlight. Keep in mind different vegetables’ growth rates and times to maturity to ensure you select varieties that will do well in your shade garden even as the light may change during the growing season.

Best Shade-Tolerant Vegetables for the Urban Garden

Vegetables that sprout edibles from blossoms – tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, etc. – tend to need abundant sunshine to produce well. Root vegetables or leafy edibles, however, are excellent choices for the shadier garden. There is a surprising variety of part shade-tolerant vegetables that can have productive yields even without full sun, including…

  • Arugula
  • Beets
  • Bush beans
  • Bok choi
  • Cabbage
  • Carrots
  • Chard
  • Collards
  • Kale
  • Lettuce
  • Parsnips
  • Potatoes
  • Radicchio
  • Radishes
  • Spinach
  • Turnips

In addition to leafy greens and root vegetables, many flavorful herbs also perform well in a semi-shady situation and can add a tasty touch to your garden. Consider adding cilantro, parsley, oregano, or mint to your urban garden for extraordinary flavor with all your vegetables.

No matter which vegetables or herbs you plant, be aware that some crops may take slightly longer to mature in the shade, but they will still perform well when given the proper care and appropriate patience before harvesting.

Maximizing Your Harvest

To make the most of all the shade-tolerant vegetables you plant, you can take steps to maximize their sun exposure and keep them healthy and productive. For example, painting nearby walls or fences white or pale blue can help reflect sunlight onto the plants, and reflective mulches can similarly reflect light up onto the leaves for a bit of extra sun exposure. With just a bit more sun, even shade-tolerant produce will perform better.

Mirrors in the garden are also an excellent way to increase available sunlight. Place mirrors in the sunniest area of your garden and direct the sunlight toward the shadiest corners. Mirrors can also make for attractive garden ornamentation making your garden space appear larger than it actually is.

Make the most of your planting space by using vertical techniques. Tiering crops and using arbors, trellises, and other supports will create more growing space without blocking what sunlight does reach the area.

Finally, be sure you give every plant the best of care with Espoma Garden Tone fertilizer and good watering practices so it can reach its full potential and most productive harvest. Be on the lookout for garden pests that can decimate your crop before you have a chance to enjoy it. When controlling pests on food products, always begin with the safest control method possible.

There are a surprising number of vegetables that do very well in semi-shaded spaces, making them perfect for urban gardens or anywhere sunlight may be at a premium. By choosing the right vegetables that will thrive in the area and giving them proper care, you can create an amazing harvest even if you aren’t able to take advantage of full-sun growing space.

shade tolerant vegetables
shade tolerant vegetables
shade tolerant vegetables
shade tolerant vegetables

Growing Northern Blueberries

Like blueberries? Who doesn’t? These tasty and delightful little blue fruits are a powerhouse of antioxidants and nutrition, promoting a healthy heart, reducing inflammation, and boosting brain function. But did you know that blueberries are relatively easy to grow, do not require much space, involve minimal care, and come in a myriad of varieties? Whether you’re looking for something sweet or tart, there’s sure to be a type that will suit your taste. Let’s begin our journey to harvest an abundance of juicy blueberries conveniently from just outside the door.

Northern Blueberries

Northern blueberries are native to North America and are the most common type of wild blueberry. These berries can be divided into two main types: highbush and lowbush.

  • Highbush Blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), also known as hybrid or cultivated blueberries, grow on tall shrubs, about six to eight feet high. However, there are some compact varieties that grow three to four feet tall. Highbush are the blueberries most often grown commercially due to their larger size and yield. An added bonus is that due to their height, bending is not required to harvest. Plan on planting highbush blueberries four to five feet apart.
  • Lowbush Blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium), also called wild blueberries, grow on shorter shrubs, about two feet tall, and produce smaller yet highly flavorful berries. They are hardier than highbush and do well in a variety of soils as long as they are well-draining. Plan on planting lowbush blueberries two to three feet apart.

Planting

Blueberries may be planted in either the spring or fall, with the best availability being in the spring. Dammann’s can recommend the most suitable highbush and lowbush varieties for your garden. Once you’ve made your selection, it’s time to plant. All blueberries have the same cultural requirements:

  • full sun, but will tolerate light shade, well-draining soil, lots of organic matter, and acid soil.

Select an appropriate planting site and amend the soil with a generous amount of compost, but, most importantly, test your soil pH. Blueberries prefer a soil pH of 4.5 to 5.5. If your soil is too alkaline, Dammann’s will recommend the type and amount of soil acidifier needed to adjust it. This process will take place over time so as not to shock the plant, but it is best done 1 year before planting. The addition of organic matter such as compost and peat moss will also help soil pH as well as drainage and soil nutrition.

Care

Water blueberries well after planting, and make sure that they receive at least one inch of water per week. Mulch the area around the bushes to keep the soil moist and weeds at bay. Do not feed blueberries at planting time, as the roots are sensitive to fertilizer. Once established, however, blueberry bushes should be fertilized two times a year: once in early spring and again in late spring. Use an organic product recommended for feeding Rhododendron and Azaleas.

Pruning

  • Highbush blueberries – prune annually in late winter/early spring after the plant has been in the ground for about three years. Prune by removing about one-third of the oldest branches thicker than a pencil or that are sporting no new buds or flowers. This will help keep your plants healthy and promote vigorous new growth each season.
  • Lowbush blueberries – should be pruned beginning in year six or seven. At that time, the plant may be cut back to the ground every two years to keep it vigorous and productive.

Tip

We love blueberries, and so do the birds! Draping bushes with bird netting at fruit set will ensure that you and your family enjoy the delicious berries and not our fine feathered friends. Growing blueberries in the home garden can be a rewarding experience, and with so many varieties to choose from, you are sure to find one that suits your needs. Whether you opt for high-bush or low-bush blueberries, both offer unique flavors and benefits that make them an ideal choice for any gardener.

Growing Blueberries
Growing Blueberries
Growing Blueberries

Secrets of Spring Bees

As the gray of winter finally starts to lift in March and April, there is a hidden world waking up right under our noses. While we might be eager to get outside and scrub the garden clean, the landscape is busy preparing for one of the most magical events of the year: the return of our native pollinators.

Deep inside hollow stems, tucked under layers of wet leaves, and buried in soil cavities, countless native bees are waiting. They are waiting for the sun to stick around and the warmth to settle in before they emerge to feed, pollinate, and build their nests.

So, how do we welcome these vital guests? Surprisingly, the best thing you can do right now is often nothing at all. Here is how you can transform your yard into a safe haven for pollinators this spring.

Master the Art of Being Messy

It is tempting to grab the rake the moment the snow melts, but patience is a virtue here. Native bees do not all wake up at once; many hit the snooze button until daytime temperatures are consistently above 50°F.

  • Leave the leaves: Hold off on raking or blowing leaves until the weather is consistently warm. Those piles are often blankets for sleeping larvae.
  • Save the stems: Keep your hollow perennial stems standing at about 8–18 inches tall. These are natural hotels for cavity-nesting bees.
  • Keep the seed heads: Avoid removing last year’s growth too early, as it provides shelter in unpredictable spring weather.

Serve the First Meal

When bees finally emerge, they have burned through their winter energy reserves and are essentially running on fumes. They need high-quality fuel immediately. Early-blooming plants are their lifeline. Consider adding these Zone-appropriate favorites to your landscape:

  • Trees and Shrubs: Witch Hazel, Red Maple, Serviceberry, and Pussy Willow offer massive amounts of pollen.
  • Flowers: Hellebore, Bloodroot, Crocus, Snowdrop, and Hepatica provide accessible nectar.

The Ground Beneath Your Feet

Unlike the honeybees we often see in cartoons, most native bees are solitary and don’t live in hives. Many of them actually live underground. To support them, you need to rethink your mulch strategy.

  • Leave it bare: Try to leave some patches of soil free of mulch. Ground-nesting bees need access to the dirt to dig their tunnels.
  • No tilling: Avoid tilling your garden beds during this season, as you might disturb resting bees.
  • Create a wild corner: Set aside a hidden spot in the yard where you do minimal cleanup and leave natural debris.

Create a Safe Zone

Nothing ruins a welcome party like toxic chemicals. Synthetic pesticides and systemic insecticides can linger in the ecosystem and harm bees before flowers even bloom.

  • Skip the spray: Avoid neonicotinoids or products labeled as systemic.
  • Trust nature: Encourage a balance of beneficial insects to handle pests naturally rather than reaching for the spray bottle.

The Watering Hole

Bees work hard and need hydration to sustain energy, build nests, and regulate their body temperature. However, they are not great swimmers.

  • Shallow is best: Use a shallow dish or saucer filled with water.
  • Add landing pads: Place stones or marbles in the water so the bees have a safe place to land and drink without drowning.

Plan for the Long Haul

While spring is crucial, your garden needs to be a reliable food source until the first frost of autumn. Aim to have at least three different pollinator-friendly plants blooming in every season. This ensures that as one flower fades, another opens, providing a continuous buffet for your buzzing visitors.

Watch and Learn

This spring, turn your garden into a living classroom. Keep an eye out for the first sightings of bees and watch which plants they flock to. Observing these patterns will help you make better planting choices for next year.

If you are ready to start but aren’t sure which early bloomers are right for your specific soil or light conditions, come chat with us. The team at Dammann’s is here to help you cultivate a space where nature can thrive.

Spring Bees, Native Pollinators
Spring Bees, Native Pollinators
Spring Bees, Native Pollinators

Supporting Every Pollinator

A healthy landscape depends on supporting garden pollinators, because supporting garden pollinators means providing food, shelter, and safe habitat for far more than just honeybees. Native bees, butterflies, beetles, birds, moths, flies, and wasps all play essential roles in pollination, pest control, and ecosystem balance. Understanding how each pollinator functions—and what it needs throughout the season—helps gardeners create landscapes that are resilient, productive, and full of life.
Creating a pollinator-friendly landscape starts with understanding who these visitors are and exactly what they need.

Native Bees: The Efficiency Experts

Native bees—like bumblebees, mason bees, and leafcutter bees—are often more efficient pollinators than honeybees because they carry dry pollen loosely on their bodies.

  • Plant Native: Choose flowers that bloom from early spring through fall.
  • Leave Bare Soil: Many species nest in the ground and need sunny patches of soil.
  • Provide Housing: Install bee houses or leave hollow stems for cavity-nesters.
  • Skip Chemicals: Avoid pesticides, especially systemic treatments that linger in plants.

Butterflies: Garden Icons

To support butterflies, you must provide nectar for adults and specific host plants for their caterpillars.

  • Match Host Plants: Plant Milkweed for Monarchs, Dill/Parsley for Swallowtails, and Thistles for Painted Ladies.
  • Create Shelter: Provide sunny areas for basking that are protected from the wind.
  • Winter Care: Don’t clean up garden beds too early; chrysalides often overwinter in leaf litter.

Moths: The Night Shift

Moths take over the pollination shift after dark, supporting evening-blooming plants like primrose and moonflower.

  • Plant Fragrance: Grow night-blooming, fragrant flowers.
  • Dim the Lights: Reduce artificial outdoor lighting that disrupts their navigation.
  • Protect Habitats: Maintain native shrubs that host moth caterpillars.

Beetles: The Originals

Beetles were pollinating flowers long before bees evolved! They prefer open-centered flowers like magnolias and asters.

  • Accessible Pollen: Plant flowers with easy-to-reach pollen.
  • Leaf Litter: Leave the leaves on the ground to provide winter shelter.

Hummingbirds: High-Energy Flyers

These territorial birds require high-energy nectar, especially during migration and nesting seasons.

  • Go Tubular: Plant red, tubular flowers like columbine, bee balm, and cardinal flower.
  • Feeders: Supplement with a clean sugar-water feeder.
  • Perches: Provide small trees or shrubs for resting.

Flies and Wasps: The Unsung Heroes

Often overlooked, hoverflies and wasps help control garden pests (such as aphids) while pollinating your blooms.

  • For Flies: Plant small, clustered flowers such as yarrow and dill.
  • For Wasps: Grow umbrella-like flowers (umbels) such as golden alexanders.

How to Build a Pollinator Haven

A thriving pollinator garden requires a holistic approach:

  • Plant Diversity: Select native species with staggered bloom times so there is always food available.
  • Layered Structure: Create a mix of canopy trees, shrubs, perennials, and groundcovers.
  • Water Sources: Provide shallow dishes with stones for safe landing and drinking.
  • Chemical Avoidance: Eliminate pesticides to protect the delicate ecological web.

Every flower you plant strengthens the local ecosystem. If you need help selecting the right plants, seeds, or shrubs, Dammann’s can guide you toward the best choices for a buzzing, beautiful landscape.

supporting garden pollinators
supporting garden pollinators
supporting garden pollinators

Spring Shrub Fertilizing Timing

As winter fades and the landscape begins its slow seasonal shift, shrubs awaken long before leaves fully expand or flower buds open. Knowing when to fertilize during early spring ensures strong growth, improved vigor, and more reliable flowering throughout the growing season. Timing matters—too early and nutrients may wash away with snowmelt and rain; too late and shrubs may produce soft new growth vulnerable to late cold snaps.Understanding when shrubs break dormancy helps guide the ideal application schedule and ensures fertilizer supports, rather than disrupts, natural growth patterns.

Why Fertilize in Early Spring?

Early spring is an ideal time to fertilize most shrubs because it aligns with their natural nutrient uptake rhythm. As soil temperatures rise and moisture increases, shrubs begin drawing nutrients into roots to support new buds, foliage, and structural growth. Fertilizing at this point replenishes nutrients lost over winter and promotes steady, predictable growth throughout spring and summer.

Avoid fertilizing frozen or waterlogged soil, as plants cannot absorb nutrients effectively under those conditions, and fertilizer may leach into groundwater rather than support plant development.

Signs the Timing Is Right

Instead of relying solely on a calendar date, look for environmental cues:

  • Soil is soft and thawed.
  • New growth buds are beginning to swell.
  • The threat of a deep freeze has diminished.
  • Daytime temperatures remain consistently above freezing.

These indicators help determine that shrubs are physiologically ready to use supplemental nutrition.

Which Shrubs Benefit Most from Early Spring Fertilization?

Not all shrubs need the same treatment. Some, including native woodland and low-nutrient-adapted species, may never require fertilizers once established. Others respond with stronger blooms, increased branching, and improved disease resistance.

Shrubs that benefit most from spring fertilization include:

  • Flowering shrubs (hydrangea, lilac, ninebark)
  • Shrubs grown for foliage color (smokebush, barberry)
  • Fruit-bearing shrubs (blueberries, currants, elderberries)

Native shrubs growing in lean, nutrient-poor soil may require only light fertilization, if at all.

Choosing the Right Fertilizer

Different shrubs prefer specific nutrient profiles:

  • Flowering shrubs: Slow-release balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 12-6-6.
  • Acid-loving shrubs: Formulas designed for azalea, rhododendron, blueberry, or holly with added sulfur to support proper soil pH.
  • Evergreens: Fertilizers containing micronutrients such as iron and magnesium to support foliage retention and color.

Slow-release products are ideal because they deliver a consistent supply of nutrients through the active growing season rather than causing rapid surges of growth.

How to Apply Fertilizer Correctly

Applying fertilizer too close to the trunk can lead to root burn or reduced uptake. Instead, distribute it evenly around the drip line—the area beneath the branch canopy where feeder roots are most active.

Steps for proper application:

  1. Measure the product according to shrub size and fertilizer instructions.
  2. Apply in a circular band around the drip line.
  3. Lightly work the fertilizer into the top layer of soil when possible.
  4. Water deeply to activate granules and begin nutrient absorption.

Shrubs recently mulched may still be fertilized; simply lift or part the mulch layer, apply fertilizer, and replace afterward.

When Not to Fertilize

Avoid fertilizing shrubs if:

  • They were planted within the last year. Newly planted trees and shrubs should not be fertilized right away. Wait until the first full growing season (about one year) after planting before applying fertilizer. During this time, the plant’s main priority is establishing a strong root system. Instead of fertilizer, use a root stimulant product to help encourage root growth and support healthy establishment.
  • They appear stressed from drought, winter burn, or pest damage.
  • Soil tests indicate high nutrient levels or improper pH.

In these cases, fertilizing may worsen stress. Instead, improve soil health, moisture, or environmental conditions first.

Soil Testing: A Valuable First Step

A simple soil test helps determine whether fertilizer is needed and which nutrients to apply. Many shrubs thrive in moderate nutrient conditions, and additions such as compost or leaf mold may be sufficient without synthetic fertilizers.

Final Considerations

Thoughtful timing and proper application ensure shrubs receive the nutrients they need to start spring strong and thrive throughout the growing season. Whether establishing young shrubs or supporting mature garden favorites, fertilizing at the right moment encourages fuller foliage, improved flowering, and long-term plant resilience.

For help selecting the right fertilizer formula or understanding the needs of specific shrubs in your landscape, the team at Dammann’s is always available to guide you.

spring shrub fertilizing timing
spring shrub fertilizing timing
spring shrub fertilizing timing

March Garden Momentum

March signals the true start of the growing season. As nature wakes up—buds swelling and daylight stretching—it’s the perfect time to set the stage for a thriving garden. Use this early spring checklist to help your landscape transition smoothly into the active months ahead.

Inspect and Tidy Garden Beds

Winter often shifts plants and leaves behind debris.

  • Remove Debris: Clear fallen branches and leftover leaves that may harbor pests.
  • Avoid Compaction: Steer clear of walking on thawing soil to prevent damaging its structure.

Prune Shrubs and Trees

Now is the ideal time to shape up your woody plants before new growth emerges.

  • Prune Now: Fruit trees, roses, and summer-blooming shrubs. Remove dead wood and cross-branching stems.
  • Wait to Prune: Spring bloomers like lilac, forsythia, and magnolia should only be pruned after they flower.

Divide Perennials

Enhance plant vigor by dividing overcrowded clumps as soon as growth appears.

  • Target Plants: Hostas, daylilies, ornamental grasses, and coneflowers benefit greatly from division now.

Prepare the Soil

Healthy soil is the foundation of a resilient garden.

  • Amend Soil: Once the ground is workable (not muddy), mix in compost or organic matter to boost nutrient content and moisture retention.

Start Seeds Indoors

Give cool-season crops a head start under grow lights.

  • Sow Now: Lettuce, kale, broccoli, snapdragons, and petunias. Always check your local frost date guidelines for timing.

Maintain Garden Tools

Sharp, clean tools prevent the spread of disease and make work easier.

  • Tool Care: Sharpen pruners, oil wooden handles, and disinfect cutting surfaces.

Apply Dormant Oil

Control overwintering pests before buds break.

  • Pest Management: Spray fruit trees and roses with dormant oil to manage aphids, mites, and scale. Ensure temperatures remain above freezing during application.

Refresh Mulch and Edges

Mulch moderates soil temperature and suppresses weeds.

  • Mulching: Fluff existing mulch or add fresh material, keeping it away from plant stems.
  • Edging: Redefine bed edges now for a polished look all season.

Plan Your Planting

Map out your garden expansions to support biodiversity.

  • Biodiversity: Incorporate native plants, herbs, and pollinator-friendly flowers to enhance habitat health.

Visit Dammann’s Garden Center & Greenhouse

Stock up on essential supplies as spring progresses.

  • Shop Local: Find seeds, soil amendments, and early-blooming shrubs. Our staff is ready to help connect you with successful local growing practices.

Early spring preparation sets the rhythm for the year. With thoughtful planning, your garden will reward you with vibrant blooms and productive harvests in the months ahead.

early spring garden checklist
early spring garden checklist
early spring garden checklist

Frost Cloth: Essential Spring Protection

There is nothing quite like the excitement of early spring gardening, but we all know the heartbreak of a sudden frost zapping our hard work. Protecting young seedlings is critical for a productive year. Enter frost cloth: the most effective tool for giving your garden a strong, healthy start.Here is how you can use this lightweight wonder to extend your growing season.

What is Frost Cloth?

Also known as row cover, frost cloth is a specialized material made from spunbonded polyester or polypropylene. Unlike plastic, which can suffocate plants, this breathable fabric allows air, light, and water to reach your crops while insulating them against the cold. Generally, it protects plants down to 28–32°F (-2 to 0°C).

Top 10 Vegetables for Spring Protection

Cool-season crops thrive under frost cloth. Here are the varieties that benefit most:

  1. Lettuce (Lactuca sativa): This fast-growing favorite loves the extra warmth.
  2. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea): A hardy green that thrives with slight protection.
  3. Peas (Pisum sativum): Cloth helps tender early varieties survive cold snaps.
  4. Radishes (Raphanus sativus): Prevents leaf damage on these quick-maturing roots.
  5. Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica): Cold-hardy, but grows significantly faster under cover.
  6. Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica): Protects sensitive young seedlings in early stages.
  7. Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis): Provides necessary insulation for tender starts.
  8. Carrots (Daucus carota): Keeps soil warmer to aid in tricky germination.
  9. Beets (Beta vulgaris): Accelerates germination speeds.
  10. Onions (Allium cepa): Helps sets and seedlings establish quickly.

Note: Tender crops, such as tomatoes and peppers, are highly vulnerable and must always be covered during early spring planting.

How to Use Frost Cloth Effectively

To get the most out of your row covers, follow these five steps:

  • Timing: Cover your plants in the evening before temperatures drop. If the day warms up significantly, remove the cloth to prevent overheating.
  • Coverage: Use hoops or stakes to create a tunnel. This prevents the fabric from touching the leaves and freezing to them.
  • Layering: Facing extreme cold? Double up your layers to raise the temperature underneath by 4–6°F (2–3°C).
  • Securing: Wind is the enemy. Anchor the edges firmly with soil, rocks, or clips to ensure no cold air sneaks in.
  • Maintenance: Keep the cloth clean and dry to maintain its insulating properties.

Budget-Friendly Alternatives

If you don’t have commercial frost cloth on hand, you can still save your garden with these household items:

  • Bed Sheets: Lightweight sheets work well for temporary insulation.
  • Cloches: Cut plastic bottles or milk jugs create mini-greenhouses for individual plants.
  • Mulch/Straw: Excellent for insulating root zones.
  • Cardboard: Useful for blocking wind in small garden sections.

Additional Tips

  • Permanent vs. temporary use: Lightweight frost cloth is ideal for temporary protection, while heavier materials or cold frames can provide longer-term insulation.
  • Sunlight considerations: Frost cloth allows light to pass through, but thicker or double layers can reduce light intensity. Ensure plants continue to receive sufficient sunlight to support healthy growth.
  • Extend season: Frost cloth or its alternatives can also protect plants in late fall, giving you an extended harvest window.

By using frost cloth or these simple alternatives, you can navigate the fluctuating temperatures of spring and ensure a bountiful harvest. Happy gardening!

frost cloth spring protection
frost cloth spring protection
frost cloth spring protection

Early Spring Perennial Care Guide

Spring is finally here! As the ground thaws, your perennials are waking up from their winter slumber. It’s the perfect time to prepare your garden for a season of vibrant growth. Proper pruning not only ensures robust blooms but also supports the beneficial insects that call your garden home.

When to Start Pruning

Timing is everything. You want to cut back perennials just as new green growth begins to emerge – typically in March or April, depending on your local climate.

  • Too early: You risk exposing tender new shoots to frost damage.
  • Too late: You might hinder vigorous growth and create a tangled garden.

What to Cut Back

Different plants require different strategies:

  • Full Die-Backs: Plants like ornamental grasses and Coneflowers (Echinacea) benefit from a thorough cut back to ground level.
  • Semi-Evergreens: For plants that keep some foliage, a light trim to remove dead material is usually sufficient.

Top 10 Perennials to Prune Now

Here is your checklist for early spring maintenance:

  1. Bee Balm (Monarda didyma): Cut to ground level to promote fresh summer flowers.
  2. Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea): Prune in late winter or early spring to encourage new growth, and leave flower stalks standing over winter to benefit birds.
  3. Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.): Clear away last year’s foliage for a cleaner look.
  4. Ornamental Grasses (Miscanthus, Panicum): Trim dead blades to make room for new foliage.
  5. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida): Cut back last year’s dead stems once you see new growth emerging, especially if you left seed heads standing over winter for birds.
  6. Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum × superbum): Once new green shoots appear, cut back last year’s dead stems and flower stalks to just above the new growth.
  7. Beech Fern (Dryopteris spp.): Best pruned just before new fronds emerge, cutting the old fronds back to the base.
  8. Sedum (Sedum spp.): Cut back tall, woody stems to allow for fresh basal shoots.
  9. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): Remove dead, dried stems from the previous year down to new basal growth to encourage new vigorous shoots.
  10. Hellebore (Helleborus spp.): Be careful! Only remove brown foliage, as flower buds may already be forming.

Protecting Overwintering Pollinators

Don’t clear everything away just yet! Many solitary bees and ladybugs hibernate in hollow stems and leaf litter. Before you cut, check for dormant insects. We recommend pruning in stages to give these vital pollinators a chance to wake up and move on safely.

Pro Tips for Success

  • Stay Sharp: Use clean garden shears to reduce the risk of disease.
  • Be Gentle: Avoid aggressive cutting on early bloomers like Pulmonaria.
  • Compost Wisely: Leave some plant debris at the base of the garden if you suspect insects are present.

Ready to get your hands dirty? Grab your shears and give your garden the fresh start it deserves this season!

early spring perennial care
early spring perennial care
early spring perennial care

Winter Gardener’s Calendar

Winter is a perfect time to plan! Curl up with your gardening books and the gardening magazines and catalogs you’ve received in the mail. Get out the gardening journal and start dreaming.

General Landscape

  • Clean up when you get a break in the weather. Remove fallen branches and downed evergreen clumps. Rake leaves to prevent stains on concrete and dead patches on lawn. If freezing weather is still in the forecast, leave the mulch in place.
  • If your Christmas tree is still around, set it where the dropping needles will provide mulch, use the branches as additional insulation for perennials, or get together with neighbors to rent a chipper and create wood chips for larger mulch.

Houseplants

  • Perk up tired houseplants by removing dead and dying leaves. Wash under a soft shower in the sink or tub.
  • Spider mites love living in warm dry winter homes. Check for mites by looking for tiny speckles on leaves. If so, pick up some Neem Oil or Horticultural Oil or Insecticidal Soap from Bonide.
  • Transplant if roots are growing through the drainage holes or over the pot edge. Pick up some new larger trend-setting colored pots to perk up your décor. Or, if you don’t want to move into a larger pot, untangle the roots and cut back by 1/3, scour the pots and replant with new soil.
  • Remember to turn your plants each week as they begin to grow towards the weaker window light.
  • Plant a terrarium or miniature garden. If you can’t play in the dirt outside, bring the fun indoors!
  • Pick up a potted plant for your valentine. Come in and choose from our thriving greenhouse full of succulents, tropicals and houseplants that are the perfect “I love you!”

Vegetables

  • February: Start vegetable and herb seeds indoors. Pick up some seed trays, heating pads, peat pellets and seed starting mix.
  • Sign up for our February 17th class “Seed Starting and Companion Gardening” and learn and companion gardening and different methods for seed starting.
  • These veggies need an early start indoors:
Broccoli
Cabbage
Celery
Chard		 Eggplant
Kale
Leeks
Lettuce		 Scallion
Onions, bulb
Peppers
Tomatoes

If you just need a breath of aromatic fresh garden air, stop by and smell ours! The humidity is perfect and will instantly transport you to spring. We’d love to see you!




Bird Feeding 101: Low Maintenance Suet Feeding

Suet is a high-energy brick of animal fat and other ingredients to attract insect-eating birds. Because it is high in fat and calories, it is a quick source of heat and energy for birds and has been used as a good substitute for the insects that birds usually feed upon, but are not plentiful in cold weather. Suet can be offered all year long but is especially important in winter. Why not offer suet to your backyard birds today?

Easy Suet Feeders

Providing suet in a wire basket or mesh bag is an easy, low-maintenance option. Depending on the numbers of birds feeding in your yard, you may only need to add a new cake or ball to the basket or bag once or twice a week. Birds will cling all over the feeder to access the suet, so even as the cake is nibbled away they can still reach the treat. While suet may be most popular in winter, you can leave it in your yard year round and birds will always visit, so there is no need to swap out the feeder or store it during different seasons. For the safest feeding, position any suet feeder 5-6 feet off the ground and near a tree trunk, shrubs or brush for birds to retreat easily if they feel threatened.

It is important to note that squirrels may love suet just as much as birds. Using wide baffles above and below the suet feeder can help keep squirrels away from the food and give birds a better chance to feed without interference. Choosing suet blended with hot pepper can also discourage squirrels, but birds have very limited taste buds and don’t mind the heat.

Birds That Love Suet

Presenting suet in your backyard will also attract a greater variety of birds for your enjoyment. The different birds that enjoy suet include…

  • Bluebirds
  • Bushtits
  • Cardinals
  • Chickadees
  • Jays
  • Kinglets
  • Mockingbirds
  • Nuthatches
  • Starlings
  • Titmice
  • Thrashers
  • Woodpeckers
  • Wrens

As more birds discover your suet feeder, your flock will grow and you may find you need to add a second, third or even fourth feeder to sate all those feathered appetites!